(Odyssey continues from Part 2)
Ukhimath to Chopta – The Drive
At 8:00 AM we started to drive for Chopta which is ~20 km of curving roads from the Ukhimath rest house where we are stationed. The road passes through a dense forest of oaks, pines, ferns, algae and mosses and is in good condition. It seems as if some artist has scraped through mushy mushy greens using charcoal. We were totally taken with the tranquil beauty of the place.
In addition to the pristine beauty we are also blessed with Solitude. I had selected this place as an escape from crowds and it is delivering remarkably on that.
Chopta
We reached Chopta by 10:00 AM. It is a very small village where there is no electricity and other amenities that we are used to. I am pleased to know that the administration is making efforts to preserve the charming beauty of this place and use of polluting diesel generators is banned.
The Trek
Soon after, we started our trek which is a ~3 km concrete paved pathway leading to the tungnath temple and then another rough and steep trek (not climb) of ~2 km to Chandrashila peak. The initial 1 km or so of the trek path passes through a canopy of Rhododendrons (the state flower called ‘buransh‘ in local language) which are in blossoms and render great red, pink, and white highlights to the scenery. Just after clearing the canopy I started jumping in ecstasy as I beheld the snow covered peaks including the Nanda Devi, Chaukhamba and Kedar in my view.
Further on, we crossed patches of pastures (‘bugyal‘ in local language) and a few groups of trekkers, mostly foreign nationals. There were a few rocky huts which I presumed may be make-shift shops selling teas/snacks to the tourists, however they were not operational at this time of year, so can’t say!
We maintained a consistent pace as we passed through the blue-green-white scenery.^
Going much higher, there were no trees but just open sky, melting snow, and mosses turning green in the summer sun.^
This small shrine located enroute made a majestic impression against the blue unrestrained skies.^
By 12:30 AM we reached the Tungnath temple. The trek is considered moderate (sometimes easy). However, my heart was beating madly with legs wanting to give way and lungs gasping for more air.
From 2900 m above sea level at Chopta to 3680 m above sea level at Tungnath in just ~3 kms, a 40-60 degree of incline, it is a feat. Especially for those who spend most of their waking time staring at Liquid Crystal and tap their fingers on plastic squares for physical workout.
Now, Chandrashila at 4000 m above sea level approachable through 1-2 feet wide walkable rocky path made slippery with melting snow and staring down at 1000’s m of cliffs (so we will discover soon) seems daunting!
Tungnath
The Tungnath temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is one of the 5 Kedar temples. Located at an altitude of 3680 m above sea level, and just below the Chandrashila peak, the temple is highest ever Hindu shrine dedicated to Shiva. It is believed to be 1000+ years old and has a legendary history associated with the Pandava’s – the heroes of the Indian Epic of Mahabharata. Due to heavy snow, the temple closes in winters which is when the Lord is temporarily shifted to his summer home at Gopeshwar. When we reached it by 12:30 PM it was still closed but awaiting opening in a couple of days.
After spending sometime here offering prayers to our diety we checked out the temporary establishment which consisted of huts made from stones, mud and wood. Most of them destroyed during the snow season. A couple of them were in the process of being repaired for the upcoming summer tourism. We decided to start their business by buying tea and noodles from them.
It was starting to warm up during the trek just sometime back but here strong wintry winds were blowing and coupled with our body temperatures dropping (since we are not walking anymore), the cold started to bite. We put on our jackets over the sweats and proceeded to Chandrashila. It was a bright sunny morning when we started but now clouds had converged and it could rain anytime and we yet had a peak to set foot on and trek back to Chopta before we felt safe.
Trek to Chandrashila (Hindi translation – ‘the moon stone’)
A small path curved from behind the temple to Chandrashila and we took it. I felt as if the tea stall owner mentioned something about a wrong turn on this trek. This part of the trek was nothing like the earlier stretch. Here, the path was very narrow and sometimes lined by loose slippery rocks. At some places there was no path at all. The melting snow started to make it more difficult. After walking for about 15-20 minutes we realized we had hit a dead-end. Now I understood the warning from the local. Alas …we will have to go back again and look for the diguised left turn that will lead us to our destination!
“Where every step is a combined result of will power and overcoming fear of dropping into a deadly abyss, to retreat is the worst punishment ever. However, there can be No Status Quo and No Quitting Now. It’s not a city road where we can just give up and wait for a ride or call a taxi: we will have to make it to the top and then also come back safe. However, we will keep on making the best of this trek and enjoy the scenery despite all hardships.”
This particular cliff shone like gold as it bathed in sunlight sieving from a tear in the cloudy envelope overhead.^ The snow had just melted from these peaks and the grasses are not yet chlorophyllic which is rendering a magical brown glow to them.
We were just about 60-80 m away from the peak when we felt the raindrops. Being adamant in front of the forces of nature is not a choice. Though, the youngest member of our trio wanted to proceed for the peak but we decided to turn back.
Even in adversity everything around us seemed very beautiful. We reached down to Chopta by 2:00 PM and headed back to Ukhimath. Made it by 3:20 PM in time to enjoy the rainy weather with steaming tea and deep fried vegetable ‘pakoras’.
Informative:
- Not many buses ply on the Ukhimath-Gopeshwar road, hence personal car/taxi is best way to travel.
- There are not many options to stay at Chopta except for a guest house by GMVN and resorts such as Magpie and Mayadeep at Dugalbitta, hence have advanced arrangements for accomodation.
- Ukhimath is the nearest town from Chopta.
- Expenses at Tungnath – Noodles: INR35/- a plate, Local rice-raunsa (a kind of local bean) plate: INR40/- a plate, Tea: INR15/- a cup.
You are reading this is a testimony that you love to travel or read about it and have certainly liked my post. Thank You 🙂 If you have any questions please drop me a comment – I would be glad to be of help to you if I can.
Cheers !!!
May 20, 2012 at 7:22 am
Great pictures!!!
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May 20, 2012 at 9:04 am
Thanks Kalps …. glad that you liked them.
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June 4, 2012 at 10:44 am
OWSOME :))
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June 4, 2012 at 10:52 am
Thanks for dropping by. Glad that you liked it! 🙂
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December 1, 2012 at 2:24 am
Thanks for your grateful informations, am working in Tourism Website , so it will be a better information’s for me. Try to post best informations like this always
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December 22, 2012 at 12:04 pm
I am visiting ukhimath and chopta in March (13,14 & 15 ) and booked GMVN Ukhimath. Dont think I can visit tunganath as I have read there will be lots of snow/ice. Do you have any information on that? Did you see ponies on the tunganath trek? Also what are the food charges at GMVN, Ukhimath?
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December 22, 2012 at 1:22 pm
Hi Jayanta, I visited the place towards end of April and the upper part of the trek plus the Tungnath temple premises were not free of ice. The temple remains closed till that time and so do the tea stalls and dhabas there. In March it certainly will have much more ice. Ponies are available. Chopta should be good though. I liked the location of Ukhimath gmvn guest house. The food is reasonably priced though you would get hardly any variety. For us, a group of 6, total cost of a meal was never more than INR 300 to 500. While there, you can also visit deoria taal. Do let me know if you need any more information.
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March 12, 2013 at 10:24 pm
Hi
Very informative post and awesome pics (which camera / lens please?). Am planning to go sometime in May 2013. There is no GMVN tourist home in Chopta. I am unable to locate any hotel in Ukhimath apart from GMVN Ukhimath tourist rest house. Could you suggest good options in case I cannot get at GMVN?
Am trying to motivate my sister to join me on Tunganath trek/ Deoria tal. How about loo for ladies at such places (such basic thing is lacking sadly in many tourist places)?
I read about availability of Jeeps from Ukhimath to Chopta and back. Did you see any? Another blog talked about hiring & firing cabs. Can I book a one-way taxi from Rishikesh to Ukhimath for example?
Thanks in advance
Anand
Bangalore
http://travel.economy-today.co.in/bangalore/sunsets-at-agumbe-maravanthe-and-kodachadri/
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March 13, 2013 at 8:56 am
Hi Anand,
I am glad you found my post informative. I have tried to answer your questions below:
1. Stay options for Chopta: The nearest options for stay around Chopta would be http://www.mayadeepchopta.com/ and http://magpieecotourism.com/chopta/. On our drive to Chopta we stopped there for some time and found the location very beautiful. I can send you a couple of pictures I took around there.
2. Tungnath Trek: Chopta trek takes you to the Tungnath temple and further to Chandrashila peak. The trek is very serene but there are no permanent establishments on the route and hence no washrooms etc. You may get some options at Tungnath though but don’t expect much 🙂
3. Deoriya Tal: There is a guest house and some camping accomodation available with okay toilet facilities. You can drive to Sari village (from here the trek starts for deoriya tal) and speak to Murali for arranging accomodation. I will look for his phone number and share with you.
4. Taxis: Ukhimath-Chopta is an important road that connects to Gopeshwar and further to Badrinath and hence buses and jeeps are available.Taxis can be hired from Rishikesh as well. I am certain you will find many options.
5. Stay at Ukhimath – There are many staying options in Ukhimath. If you don’t get Ukhimath GMVN, you can try for Chandrapuri GMVN (see https://theescapades.wordpress.com/2012/05/28/triyuginarayan-love-everafter-apr-24-2012/) or Guptakashi which is a major town.
For pictures, I used Nikon3000/18-55mm Nikor.
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Punam
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March 13, 2013 at 4:06 pm
Hi Poonam,
Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I am aware of mayadeepchopta.com and magpie eco tourism (I am not keen on tents). Did you drop into mayadeep herbal resort, and did it seem a good place? Their website does not have room pics.
I plan to cover Deoria Tal and Tunganath by staying in Chopta / Ukhimath. I don’t think Sari village or Deoria Tal have any good hotels?
Please post more pics of Chopta, views from Tunganath, Deoria Tal here or email. Are these worth going all the way from Bangalore, since in our country, pilgrimage and tourist spots are crowded and dirty. I found even Manali and way to Rohtang pass disappointing (could not drive all way to the pass).
I am looking to cover Kedarnath as well. Are the Himalayan views great and is the place somewhat clean /not too crowded?
Cheers
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March 28, 2013 at 7:20 pm
Hi Anand,
I thought I replied on this, my bad!
Though The location of both Mayadeep and Magpie resorts is beautiful, I did not check out them. But as you said you can stay in Ukhimath where you will find decent options to stay. Sari village is a very small place and there are no hotels there. Similarly, Deoria Taal will offer you a few tent options only and a government guest house (don’t count on the guesthouse though). One thing I can say is that the place is serene and stunningly beautiful. Himalayan views are great(est, if I may :)), and certainly worth the effort.
For Kedarnath, it takes 14 kms of trek from Gaurikund or a helicopter ride. But it is very crowded (people as well as mules) as faithfuls downpour to the place from the day of temple opening. So much so that all the guesthouses remain full. The GMVN guesthouses at Gaurikund, Rambada and Kedarnath get booked 2-3 months in advance.
If you are thinking of a ‘relaxing timeout’ then this may not be the vacation you are looking for.
Hope you find my experience useful.
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September 18, 2014 at 5:37 pm
I am planning to go to Chopta Tungnath Trek. I have read multiple reviews and i am quite impressed and excited.
http://www.365hops.com/social/event_detail.php?eventid=VkZod1JtVlJQVDA9
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September 19, 2014 at 8:47 am
Hi Ajay — I am sure you won’t be disappointed. Have a good trip. 🙂
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April 5, 2015 at 11:06 pm
We are planning to visit these places (Deoria Taal, Tunganath) along with Badrinath – Neelkanth Parvath base trekking from 26th April to 2nd May. You post was very helpful in deciding our itinerary. It was very informative. Thank you very much.
Looking forward to have an exciting and memorable experience.
Thumbs up,
Gopi Menon 🙂
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April 6, 2015 at 9:00 am
Hi Gopi,
Thank you for the note. I am glad my experience has been helpful to you. Please take extra care of your belongings as there is constant threat of visitors losing their heart to Uttarakhand and its scenic vista’s. 😉
I hope you have a great trip.
All the best,
Punam
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May 16, 2015 at 8:27 am
Hi Poonam,
This was such a great read! I am actually planning to go there next week May 22, 23,24. Now, you might think of this as an extremely stupid question but I have to ask. Do you think it is a bad idea to go tunganath with my dad? I think I have read too much and I am confused now.
I would really appreciate your advice.
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May 16, 2015 at 8:43 am
Hi ‘somegal’, I hope you have a wonderful experience of the place and you come back with beautiful memories. I am not aware of the physical wellness of your dad but let me share with you that my parents above 60 years of age were able to manage the trek very comfortably. They have sound health, active lifestyle and some trekking experience. I just ensure that when we trek with my parents my brothers are there and that we dont rush, take breaks, and hydrate a lot. Tungnath is short and easy grade trek, if your father’s health is good he would be able to take it easily and love it too. For your peace of mind you can consult a physician as well. Cheers girl, enjoy!
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January 15, 2016 at 4:12 am
Yes indeed i guess thts how heaven feels 😊 i originally come from this area and every year when i return and do this little trek i am amazed! !! Its stunning specially with burans.
Very well written! Thank you
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January 16, 2016 at 8:07 pm
Thank you namesake :). You are very lucky to call such a stunning place your home.
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February 28, 2016 at 8:21 am
Hi !!
Thanks for an apt information.
On 23rd April 2016 I’m going to Haridwar from Kolkata.
I’ll reach there on 24th at 4 PM.
I’m planning to go to Tumganath on 25th.
What will be the duration of Bus journey from Haridwar/Rishikesh to Chopra?
What will be the fare (Approx.)?
What will be the temperature during this period?
avirup.official@gmail.com
9800008091
9093398091
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